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Luang Prabang...the refuge of the last dreamers..?

February 6, 2012, 10:16 pm
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Having struggled for months to start this blog with my own words, I have decided to hijack the words of another and share this extract from the journal of one Marthe Bassenne, a formidable Frenchwoman and wife of a colonial doctor who was stationed in Luang Prabang back in 1909:

"Oh! What a delightful paradise of idleness this little country protects, by the fierce barrier of the stream, against progress and ambitions for which it has no need! Will Luang Prabang be, in our century of exact sciences, of quick profits, of victory by money, the refuge of the last dreamers, the last loved ones, the last troubadours?"

Arriving here 100 years later in 2009, my thoughts and feelings were much the same as hers (although not nearly as eloquent and articulate, I confess).  Despite various political upheavals and the more recent pressure of globalisation, Luang Prabang has so far managed to hold on to its soul and remain faithful to its natural, cultural and spiritual heritage. On the surface, it has changed in many ways since Mrs Bassenne made her adventurous journey here.  For one, riverboats are no longer the only means of transport to and from the town, with a small but functional international airport undergoing expansion as we speak.  And of course, nowadays sadly, you are more likely to see troops of backpackers and touring European pensioners than catch a glimpse of a wild elephant or tiger. But in its essence, at its core,  the same magic and mystery that seduced Madame Bassenne all those years ago still permeates Luang Prabang today, luring in artists, writers, artisans and admirers from far and wide.   And it's why I've chosen to live here.


Launching of a dug-out boat at the boat racing festival or boun souang heua, Louis Delaporte, 1867

Vat Chomsi, Louis Delaporte 1867

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Huh? Laos...? That's a country?

February 9, 2012, 9:55 pm
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"Laos?? Where the hell's that?" is the reaction of a rather shamefully large number of Europeans and Americans when Laos comes up in conversation.    Here's a great scene from King of the Hill which anyone familiar with this reaction will surely appreciate. Brilliant.

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So where's the best massage place in Luang Prabang?

February 17, 2012, 6:06 am
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This was one of the first questions I wanted answers to when I moved here. I am someone who holds all their stress in their back and shoulders, and having spent many years hunched over a desk at my computer in London, feeling stressed, I crave massages like smokers crave a cigarette. I am a massage junkie, but at £60 an hour, being an addict in London almost bankrupted me. The prospect of having frequent massages at less than a tenth of the price was a hugely influential factor on my decision to move over here.

So I made it my first order of business to test out the various massage options around town.  There are a number of places offering massage in Luang Prabang and even though the price does not fluctuate greatly from place to place, the standard and settings varies significantly.  Nearly all of the massage places offer Lao massage, and many also offer Thai, Oil, Head & Shoulder, and Foot massages.  For Lao and Thai massage (full body massages without oil), they will usually give you some cotton pyjamas to wear or a Lao-style sarong to wrap around you.

I have had both dreadful massages (one-handed jobs where I was essentially just polished with oil while my masseuse chatted loudly on her phone) and massages that were so heavenly I came out floating afterwards.

Of course, every place has good masseurs and not-so-good masseurs, so I can't guarantee everyone will have the same experience as me, but nonetheless (based on my rigorous research!) these are the places I would strongly recommend.

Mrs Somchit at the Peninsula Massage
Peninsula Sauna & Massage Centre 
Tel: +856 (0) 20 55675282 or +856 (0) 71 253 411
Opening hours: 10.00AM - 8.00PM

This is by far and away my favourite place for a massage.  I am a regular patron, as are many other LP resident massage connoisseurs.  For a start, it is at the end of the peninsula, by Wat Xieng Thong, which is probably the quietest place in town (noise is an issue in a lot of places).  The owner is Mrs Somchit, and she really knows her stuff. She is a licensed Physiotherapist and has been practising Lao massage for 23 years, like her father and grandfather before her.  According to her, the technique of Lao massage and the massage techniques that are used in Physiotherapy are very similar, and thus very effective (Lao technique uses firm thumb and palm pressure on the body's energy lines, helping to relieve aches and pains and improve circulation) She personally trains all the masseurs that work for her, and I have not had one that hasn't been excellent. You do lack a little privacy here though,  so you must be prepared to share a room with other people having massages, with just a thin sheet of cotton between you and the person next to you if anything at all.  Mrs Somchit also offers acupuncture (she trained in Vientiane) and there is a traditional Lao Herbal Steam bath upstairs that's very popular.

Prices range from 50,000 kip ($6) for 1 hr Lao massage to 120,000 kip ($15) for 1 hr acupuncture. Complimentary bottled water given at the end.
L'Hibiscus Spa & Massage

L'Hibiscus Massage & Spa
Tel: +856 (0) 30 9235079
Opening hours: 10.00AM - 10.00PM

Hibiscus is a relatively new addition to the mix, having just opened opposite Wat Sop about a year ago. The owner is Lao-French, who also owns the delicious Cafe Bannetton bakery next door, so that's probably why it has more of a chic sophisticated look than other places around town.  Housed in a beautiful, old colonial house, Hibiscus is a little oasis of tranquility and calm. Soothing spa music echoes throughout, and massages are done in private rooms on proper massage tables (you know, the ones with the hole at the end). Hibiscus is more like a proper spa, offering a range of beauty treatments (facials, manicures etc) along with a wide choice of massage options (Lao, herbal, hot stone, aromatherapy with hot oil, aromatherapy with milk). You could also opt for a foot massage on one of the very comfortable reclining chairs on the balcony.
Residents and long-stay visitors can benefit from their loyalty scheme, which gives members a 20% discount between 10am and 3pm, and a free 1 hour massage of choice after 9 visits.

Prices range from 60,000 kip ($7) for a standard 1hr Lao massage  to 350,000kip ($43) for a package of 3 treatments.

Entrance to Spa Garden
The Spa Garden
Tel: +856 (0) 71 212325
Email: info@spagardenlpb.com
Opening hours: 10.00AM - 9.30PM
http://www.spagardenlpb.com/

This place certainly gets brownie points for setting and decor.  Also in a quiet spot on the peninsula, about a block further down from Wat Nong,  Spa Garden is just that - a spa with a garden.  Here you have more privacy than most places, with nice clean WC, changing room and shower facilities. It's also extremely quiet - save for a few whispers here and there and the odd person tiptoeing around. They have a wide variety of treatments and massage, including some good deep tissue options, my favourite being the Relaxation Massage. One of the few places that accepts payment with credit cards (Visa / Mastercard).

Prices range from 60,000 kip ($7) for 1 hour Mystic Lao Massage, to 300,000 kip ($38) for a 1hr 20minute Body Scrub.


Dhammada Massage Oasis
Dhammada Massage Oasis 
Tel: +856 (0) 71 212642 or +856 (0) 71 252933
Email: info@luangprabangoasis.com
Opening hours: 10.00AM - 8.00PM
http://www.luangprabangoasis.com/

If a great head and neck massage is what your after, then look no further than Dhammada.  It can be a little tricky to find, and is on the road that runs down past Dara market so not in the old part of town.  Set back off the road in a small wooden house next to a large lotus pond, it should normally be quiet and tranquil but annoyingly there are building works going on next door at the moment.  I mysteriously injured my neck a couple of weeks ago after a few too many BeerLao, and this place (in particular, a masseur called Laa) totally sorted me out.  They offer you a glass of rather comforting herbal tea when you arrive, and then gently wash you feet (something which is not really common practice here, unlike Thailand). The massage is done while you are seated in a sort of deck chair. and lasts 45 minutes. This place doesn't offer Lao massage, but has its own unique Oriental massage instead (a blend of Thai, Lao and Chinese techniques), plus foot massage and aroma oil massage. Dhammada has been open for five years and all the masseurs have been trained by a master Thai massage instructor from Bangkok.  It's a bit more expensive than other places around town - but worth it in my mind.

Prices range from 50,000 kip ($6) for a 40 minute Head & Neck Massage to 300,000 kip ($37) for a 2 hour Oil Massage.

A few extra tips...
  • Don't go too late in the evening - by then the masseurs are tired and just want to go home, so you probably won't get their full attention for the massage
  • Tell the person in charge if you like your massage strong or soft (so they can choose the right masseur for you - some are stronger than others)
  • Stronger in Lao = haeng haeng
  • Softer in Lao = bao bao
  • I usually tip about 10% - 20%, depending on how wonderful I feel afterwards. But it seems most people don't tip.
If you agree / disagree or have other recommendations for massage in Luang Prabang, I would welcome your comments below.
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Little Lao Critters

February 19, 2012, 7:12 am
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I am fascinated by the rich array of weird and wonderful creatures that you find in Laos.  And I wouldn't be surprised if there are still thousands of as yet unidentified species lurking about in the depths of the forests here.  It seems Laos is a bit of a Lost World for unusual species of wildlife, with many new discoveries having been made in the last decade.

Around Luang Prabang there are all sorts of interesting little critters to amuse nature lovers like me. Here is one of the more peculiar UFOs I've caught on camera (and it really does look like a flying saucer). Would love to know what it is if there are any helpful zoologists or bug enthusiasts out there? It's really bugging me.



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Renting a House in Luang Prabang

March 15, 2012, 7:12 am
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One of the biggest hurdles in moving to Luang Prabang is finding a place to live.  There are an increasing number of houses for rent, but only a handful are advertised on the internet and there are no rental estate agents.  As a result, it is pretty difficult to find anything unless you are physically in the town. Most people who move here stay in a guesthouse for the first few months while they look around and search for a place to live.

The quality of rental houses varies considerably.  A lot of the newly built houses are big (3-5 bedrooms) but most lack character and warmth, and have questionable furnishing and decor.  Little attention is paid to detail, particularly in the bathrooms and kitchens, and the layout can be quite illogical from a Western viewpoint (think refrigerators in the living room).

The best way to start your search is to just walk, cycle or get a tuk tuk around town to check out the "house for rent" signs.  If you don't speak Lao, taking a tuk tuk with an English speaking driver will be helpful - they can call the telephone numbers on the signs and speak to the landlords on your behalf.

If you want to live on the peninsula, the options are limited and obviously much more expensive.  Most of the nicer places are already rented out on long-term leases.  Other neighbourhoods around town (not on the peninsula) that you might want to check out are Ban Visoun, Ban Mano and Ban Navienkham.  For outdoor space and views, you have to go a little further out of town.  There are a few places off the road to Kuang Si, and also on the other side of the Nam Khan along the road to Ban Xieng Leck.

It's worth stopping in at the local minimarts - Chitanh Deli and Tan Samay Deli (opposite Dara Market) - and telling the managers that you are looking for somewhere as they usually know which houses are for rent around town.  Markus from Tiger Trail also has a small online real estate business (with houses for rent but selling more than renting) so if you head over to his shop on the main road, he may be able to help you as well.

House rents range from $300 - $800 a month and most landlords want at least 6 months rent upfront.  You may be able to negotiate a deal if the house is a bit run down and you are prepared to do some renovations, or if you are willing to pay for the whole year / several years upfront.

Here are a few of the nicer, "falang-ified" houses for rent around town.  At the time of writing, these are all currently rented but if you're interested, you can always try contacting the owners to see when the house will next become available.

http://www.houseinluangprabang.com/
http://www.luang.coolix.com/
http://www.salanoy.com/

If you're after something a little more temporary, you could go for this homestay which is about 5km out of the centre of town, run but a very hospitable young French guy and his Lao wife. The house is newly built in the Lao style with a proper kitchen, terrace and large garden, and all the rooms have been decorated very nicely http://www.homestay-laos.com/


Luang Prabang homestay for shorter stays

Living on your own, you can expect to pay approximately 120,000 - 300,000 kip ($15 - $30) per month for electricity, and 20,000 kip ($2.50) per month for water.  The guys from the electricity and water boards will come round each month and pin your bills to your door - then you just go along to their respective offices to pay.

Here are a few things to look out for / consider before you rent:

Neighbours
Noise can be an issue in Luang Prabang so you should check who your neighbours are. It's all very lovely living next to a temple, but you may not think it so lovely at 4 in the morning when the monks start drumming.  There are usually quite a few dogs at the temples as well which can sometimes bark throughout the night.

Flooding Risk
Some houses do not have adequate flooding prevention which can be a nasty surprise once you hit the rainy season.

Landlord
Ask other expats / locals around town if they know of the house or anyone else who's lived there.  Do a little digging to see if the landlord is a reasonable person or if they are going to give you headaches!

Legalities
It's illegal to rent a house if you only have a tourist visa, so if you want to go by the book then you need to sort out a job (with a company that will sponsor your long-stay B2 visa), or invest in a business.  There are people who rent houses on tourist visas and haven't had any problems, but word on the street is that they have been clamping down on this a lot more lately.
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Mango Rains

March 16, 2012, 1:58 am
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During the last few weeks, Luang Prabang has been blanketed by stifling clouds of dust, the result of the continued practice of slash and burn agriculture in Laos.  At this time of year, it gets hot and stuffy, hard to breath and your eyes end up bloodshot and irritated from all the smokey particles blowing into your face.

So it was a glorious, welcome surprise when a sudden storm blew in two nights ago.  The rains came pouring down all night, washed away all the dust and revealed a bright blue sky the following day.

Rainy season does not really begin in Laos until the start of May, so I was a little confused by this freak storm.  Global warming perhaps, I thought to myself.  But after a little questioning of the locals, I discovered that it was in fact normal to have short, sporadic bursts of rainfall this time of year. These are the wonderfully termed Mango Rains, which appear in February and March to coincide with the fruiting of the mango trees (hence the name).  Apparently they come specifically to help the mango trees produce a big, sweet, juicy crop, as the ground is dry and the heavy rainy season is still a few months away.  It seems Mother Nature really knows what's she's doing in Laos.

Mango fruits sprouting in my garden (thanks to the mango rains!)

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Petty theft and crime in Luang Prabang

April 11, 2012, 1:01 am
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When I first came here, my impression was that Luang Prabang was a quiet, sleepy town with almost no violence or crime.  I felt pretty safe walking the streets at night, figuring that the Lao were gentle, Buddhist people and that no harm would come to me.  Ten years ago, this may have been the case but, sadly, it is no longer. Crime is on the up. Tourism and development has increased the disparity between rich and poor, and wealthy (by local standards) falangs make easy targets.  Factor in an increasing demand for illegal drugs, namely methamphetamine (or yaba as it is known locally), and you have a pretty ripe situation for crime.

Official figures are hard to come by, and are not too reliable anyway, but last I heard there were about 3 incidents a day being reported to the tourist office.

Violent crime is rare, but petty theft (break-ins, bag-snatching) is becoming fairly common.  And your risk of being a victim is increased if you are a woman, even more so if you are foreign.  The number of incidents go up significantly before large Lao holidays, such as Pi Mai in April, so it's important to be extra vigilant during these times.

If you do become the victim of a crime in Luang Prabang, contact the tourist police.  They are open Monday - Saturday, 8am-11.30am and 1pm - 4pm, and are located at the start of the Sisavangvong Road, on the corner beside the Tourism Information Centre.You need to be quite delicate when interacting with the police here.  Shouting and making demands will not work, and will just make the situation worse.  Be as gracious and courteous as possible, and this will ensure that you get the most help out of them.  Remember that the judicial system here favours locals over foreigners, and is not too sophisticated.  You must be careful not to overstep the mark or you could end up accused of violating some random law and be put in jail yourself!

Here are some tips on how to keep you and your possessions safe:
  1. If you ride a bicycle around town, do not put your bag in the basket.  Many bag thefts occur like this - guys on motorcycles drive past and just take the bag from the basket.  Don't make it easy for them. Wear a backpack over both shoulders, and wear it so the bag is carried over your front, not your back.
  2. Carry your money under your shirt in a money purse around your neck, on a money belt, or keep it in the front pocket of your trousers. If you have a bag, it's best to carry it on your front and / or to conceal it as much as possible.
  3. Don't walk or ride around by yourself after 11 / 11.30pm - there is a curfew here at 12pm so if anything happens to you after this time, the police will sometimes just tell you it's your fault for being out late at night!
  4. If you are renting a house, put cowbells or similar items by doors and windows so you can be alerted if they are opened.  Ensure your house is well lit outside at night. Don't sleep with the window open!!
  5. If you are staying in a guesthouse, put any valuables in the safe or at least put them out of view and especially keep them far away from windows and doors.  Thieves have been known to use long bamboo poles to grab items through barred windows.
  6. Avoid the dark roads and alleys later at night - the road running from the main bars to the south of Phousi Hill is poorly lit at night and a hotspot for muggings, as is the road by the Mekong near Pizza Sasa.
All this being said, crime is still relatively low when you compare Luang Prabang with other cities around the world.  But because of the laid-back, serene atmosphere, people tend to forget their wits and thus make themselves vulnerable.  Just be wise and vigilent - as you would at home - and no harm should come to you.
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Happy New Year Lao-style

April 12, 2012, 11:22 am
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Sok Dee Pi Mai! Another nod to Lao culture from King of the Hill.

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Lao New Year in Luang Prabang

April 19, 2012, 7:37 am
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April is the hottest time of the year in Laos, and the month when the usually tranquil Luang Prabang takes on an entire alter ego.  Lao New Year (Pi Mai Lao) takes place from April 13th - April 15th every year, in accordance with the ancient Hindu calendar used in Theravada Buddhism.  In Luang Prabang, the main events take place on these three days, but it is in fact a week-long festival, starting with the Miss Lao New Year beauty contest, on the eve of April 13th.  Although it is a serious, traditional occasion for devout Buddhists, for many it is also an excuse to go wild, spray water everywhere and drink copious amounts of BeerLao, Lao Whisky or whatever local brew they can get their hands on.

Young Lao girl enjoying the water fight aims at a passing nun

Bowls of water being thrown
Approximately three or four days before Pi Mai officially starts, as you amble about the town minding your own business, you will suddenly find yourself drenched in water from head to toe. It seems the excitement gets too much for some people, who are unable to wait until the 13th to start the fun.  Small armies of kids (and adults for that matter) start to convene on the streets in the afternoons, armed with various means of water weaponry (water pistols, hosepipes, buckets) to ambush unsuspecting passers-by.

This water-throwing frenzy has its origins in the traditional New Year cleansing ritual, where people gently sprinkled scented water over each other as a sign of respect, to wash away the old spirits and welcome in the New Year.

Nowadays you will be lucky to just get a sprinkling of water.  You will more likely get completely soaked, and have not just water but coloured water (dyed with food colouring) and flour thrown at you too.  The water throwing reaches its peak on the second official day of Pi Mai, when the main streets of Luang Prabang get lined with cruising pick up trucks, filled with young revellers hurling water at the people in the streets.  Many shops and businesses close for the day and set up parties outside their doors, blasting out Lao pop music from huge PA speakers and joining in the fun.  The town descends into one huge waterfight, and the only way to stay dry is to stay home.
Young teenagers in a flour and water fight with crowds on the street
Young Lao boy covered in dye, flour and water
The atmosphere is very rowdy, but very joyful with children, adults and even the elderly and frail getting involved.  Many of the younger generation take this opportunity to loosen themselves from the constrains of conservative Lao culture, a sort of Lao-style "spring-break" with "outrageous" behaviour such as young women wearing shoulder-bearing vest tops and skimpy shorts, or dancing suggestively.  Pretty tame by Western standards but as wild as you can go in Laos.

Enjoying a Beer Lao break
Very un-Lao attire worn during the water fights of Pi Mai Lao
However, Pi Mai in Luang Prabang is not just about waterfights.  It also has a more traditional Buddhist and Animist focus.  Over the seven days, local people worship the Buddha and make merit in a variety of ways that they believe will bring them health and happiness in the new year .  Below is a description of all events and customs carried out on each day of the festival, and some tips on local etiquette and making the most of the experience.

Day 1: Sangkhan Luang - This is the last day of the old year.  People clean their houses as the old spirit departs and there is a large market in the morning, where locals go to buy new clothes for the new year, and purchase birds and animals which they can release for good luck.  In the afternoon, on the Mekong River Island of Hat Muang Khoun, locals gather to make merit by building stupas from sand and decorating them.

Day 2: Sangkhan Nao - This is the day between the two years ("the day of no day") and the biggest water-throwing day.  In the afternoon, a parade of civic groups, costumed dancers, children and monks, lead at the front by Miss Lao New Year, makes its way down the main street towards Wat Xieng Thong. Three of the main figures in the parade are the red-faced spirits Grandfather and Grandmother Nyeu, guardians of the environment, and Sing Kaew Sing Kham, a mythical lion-headed figure.   
Little girl in her formal dress not enjoying the heat in the parade
An older lady pours water gently over the novices in the parade in the more traditional manner
Sing Kaew Sing Kham
Day 3: Sangkhan Keun Pi Mai - The last day of water fights, still very rowdy but not as much as the day before.  In the early morning, locals take part in a special tak bat by the Royal Palace,  up the steps to Mount Phousi, giving alms to the poor and needy.  During the afternoon, the parade walks from Wat Xieng Thong to Wat Tatnoy and water fights resume, which are still very rowdy but not as much as the day before. In the evening, many families take part in a traditional Baci ceremony.

Young boy drenched in water on the back of a truck during the second day of festivities
Day 4: A procession takes the Phra Bang Buddha statue from its home at the Royal Palace Museum to a temporary pavillion at Wat Mai.  On this day, many people partake in the "Gao Wat" ritual of visiting different temples to pray, light incense and candles, and bathe Buddha images with scented water and flowers. Individuals pour the perfumed water into sluice pipes, which are carved in the form of river serpents, and suspended over the Buddha statues.  It is auspicious to visit nine temples in total, hence the name Gao (9) Wat.

Day 5: The day the new spirit arrives.  This is a very important day. In the evening, locals convene on Wat Mai to cleanse the Phra Bang, and many use this time to complete the "Gao Wat" ritual if they have not already done it the day before.

Day 6: Bun Pi Mai officially comes to an end in Luang Prabang, as a morning procession brings the Phra Bang from Wat Mai back to the Royal Palace Museum, where it will stay until the next New Year.

Tips for enjoying Pi Mai in Luang Prabang
  • Water throwing generally takes place from midday onwards.  To avoid getting wet, do all the things you need to do outside the house in the morning.  
  • Wear old clothes or clothes you don't care about getting wet or ruined - not just during the festival but in the days leading up to it.
  • Carry your belongings in a plastic bag - again both during and in the days leading up to Pi Mai.
  • Arm yourself with a water gun - you can buy these from Dara or Phousi market.
  • Buy all the groceries you need before the start of Pi Mai, as most shops will be closed over the three days.
  • If you want to participate in or observe the cleansing of Phra Bang at Wat Mai, be respectful.  Women should wear a traditional sinh (Lao skirt), and wear a scarf over their shoulders. Men should also wear a scarf over their shoulders.  Remember to ask if you want to take photos.
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Little Laos

April 20, 2012, 10:03 pm
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This wonderful little tilt-shift film of Laos makes everything look miniature.  The film was shot in January 2012 by travelling German filmmaker Joerg Daiber, who captured these scenes in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Kuang Si Falls, Nong Kiaw, Luang Namtha, Phonsavan and Houayxay.  Daiber uses an elevated shooting position and wide angle lenses to film the scenes, and then adds the tilt-shift effect in post-production. You can find out more about the technique here.  Check out his brilliant series of other tilt-shift films including Bonsai Burma and Toy Thailand on his youtube channel LittleBigWorld.

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Cooling off in Luang Prabang

April 22, 2012, 10:48 pm
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As the temperatures reach the high 30s (sometimes 40s) in April and May, it can be hard to muster the energy to do anything other than lie under a fan or sip iced tea in an air-conditioned cafe.  Some retreat to the hills or the cooling waters of Kuang Si, but if you want to cool off in the town, and don't fancy a dip in the river, there are a number of hotels that allow you to use their swimming pool for a small fee.

Kiridara
22/13 North Road,
Ban Navienkham
T +856 (0)71261888
W http://kiridara.com

Opening hours: 8am - 7.30pm
Pool size: 14m x 7m, depth 1.4m
Price per person: $5
Call ahead to book and let them know what time you are coming.

Pool at Kiridara
Paradise Resort
Khan River Side, 13 North Road,
Ban Meuang Nga
T +856 (0)71213103     
W http://www.luangprabangparadiseresort.com/

Opening hours: 11am - 6.30pm
Pool size: 17m x 7m, depth 1.4m
Price per person: Adults 40,000 kip ($5), Children 30,000 kip 

Paradise Resort Swimming Pool
Shinta Mani
Phou Meo, Thai Lao Friendship Road
T +856 (0)71260560      

Opening hours: 6am - 9pm
Pool size: 30m free-form infinity pool
Price per person: Adults $10, Children $5

Shinta Mani Infinity Pool
Le Palais Juliana
Chao Phetsalath Street
Ban-Sangkalok (10 minutes drive / 4km from centre of town)
T +856 (0)71260417
W http://www.lepalaisjuliana.com/     

Opening hours: 8am - 9pm 
Pool size: 25m x 10m, depth 1.3m
Price per person: $10

The pool at Palais Juliana
Santi Resort & Spa
Santi Resort Road,
Ban Nadeuay (15 minutes /5km from centre of town)
T +856 (0)71252157
W http://www.villasantihotel.com/

Opening hours: 8am - 7pm
Pool size: 20 m free form pool
Price per person: $10

Hotel has a free shuttle service between Villa Santi (on Sakkarine Road) and the Santi Resort starting at 9.30am.  You can obtain the current timetable from the Villa Santi hotel reception.

Santi Resort Swimming Pool
La Pistoche
Ban Phong Pheng,
T +856 (0)71-260-943 or +856 (0) 20-5966-1204

Opening hours: 10am -10pm
Pool size: Two pools - Small plunge pool, approximate length 10m and much larger pool 11 x 22 metres
Price per person: 20,000 kip ($2.50) plus 50,000 kip deposit (which is refunded when you leave)

This isn't a hotel, it's a bar with a pool and a favourite hangout of backpackers and the local Francophone expat community.  It used to just have a small plunge pool, but since November 2012, La Pistoche now has a second, much larger swimming pool with a jacuzzi and swim-up pool bar, and lots of space for lounging around and soaking up the sun. They have happy hour from noon til 7pm and occasionally host live music concerts and shows.  A small menu with lao food, burgers, pizza, and pasta is available. 

La Pistoche large pool and swim-up bar
La Pistoche large pool
Small plunge / volleyball pool at La Pistoche
Alternatively, if you want to do as the locals do, you can opt for swimming in the Nam Khan River or head to the local public pool in Ban Phong Pheng, near La Pistoche.  However, be prepared to be surrounded by lots of screaming kids and remember to dress modesty - women should cover themselves and swim in shorts and t-shirt, or wear a Lao sarong.  Do NOT swim in your underwear, or in a skimpy bikini.  If you want to go, it's best to go early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Price is 10,000 kip for adults, 5,000 kip for children.
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Keeping fit in Luang Prabang

May 7, 2012, 10:12 pm
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If you opt for a bicycle rather than a moped, it is pretty easy to stay reasonably fit in Luang Prabang.  That being said, cycling about at the height of hot season is not always desirable.  Luckily there are increasing options for exercise and keeping fit, both indoor and out.  Here is my roundup of all the exercise and sporting activities available around town.

Gyms
Le Palais Juliana offers daily, monthly and yearly memberships for use of their gym and / or swimming pool. Currently a year membership is $800 for use of both pool and gym.  Members also get a10% discounts on food and one nights complementary stay at the resort.  Email info@lepalaisjuliana.com for up-to-date information on rates.

Kiridara Resort also offers daily membership to use their gym ($5 to use the gym, and additional $5 to use the pool).  Gym has free weights, treadmill, elliptical trainer and upright bike. Monthly membership is currently $99 and a year membership is $1100. Not cheap!

There is also a small, very basic weights gym in Dara Market for where you can drop in for 10,000kip.

Yoga
Luang Prabang Yoga  gives up to date information about yoga classes happening around Luang Prabang.  Morning and evening classes currently take place on the deck at Utopia, overlooking the Nam Khan river, and also at the Ock Pop Tok living craft centre in Ban Saylom.   Both settings are stunning, very zen and perfect for practicing.

Utopia morning yoga class
Pilates
Luang Prabang Pilates offers beginner / intermediate mat Pilates classes 3 times a week (Tuesday & Thursday at 6.30pm and Saturday mornings at 9.30am).  Pilates focuses on strengthening the core muscles, and improves muscle tone and posture.  Mat classes currently take place at Mekong Yoga studio in Ban Aphai and at a hotel near Dara Market.  Private / individual classes also available. Call Emi for more details +8562022959091

Pilates with Luang Prabang Pilates

Dance
Salsa classes are held on Wednesday nights at S Bar, from 7.00 / 7.30 - 9.00pm (30,000kip for 1 hour, 50,000kip for 2).  Classes are currently led by Charlene, and beginners are welcome.  
Adults can also attend freestyle/ latin dance classes on Sundays 2 - 4pm in the Taekwondo room at the Stadium (near the Chinese Market).  Classes are run by Ming, a professional dance teacher and choreographer from Thailand.   One month (8 hrs of classes) for 350,000kip. Ming also teaches ballet and pop dance for young children and teenagers on Saturday afternoons.   Contact Ming for more information 02059732069.

Circuits / Interval Training
LP Bootcamp is a group of expats who get together during the week for informal circuit and interval training, as well as morning runs up Mount Phousi.   Group workouts are held at different locations around town including the Stadium (near the Chinese market) and near the statue in President Souphanouvong Park.  Not for the faint hearted.  Join their group on Facebook for updates on when and where activities are taking place.


Luang Prabang Stadium, for dance and LP Bootcamp
Volleyball
There is a beach volleyball court at Utopia, and local residents often play here during the mornings on weekends or in the afternoons.  Use of the court is free, but you should at least buy a drink at the bar.  They also have volleyball courts at the National Stadium near Wat Phou Khouay, just where the road splits to go left to the new bridge and right to Ban Phanom..

Badminton
Badminton is a very popular sport in Laos.  There are courts all around town - near the Chinese Market,  near La Pistoche and pretty much everywhere. A court costs around 20,000kip for 1 hour. You can also play at night-time for free on the courts next to the EDL office (or so I'm told).  Rackets and shuttlecocks can be bought at Phosi Market, and in the sports shop on the corner of Kitsalat and Manomai Road.

Tennis
Sadly the Santi Resort tennis courts are now closed for renovations, and no longer accepting non-guests to play.  There are tennis courts at the National Stadium near the new bridge, which can be used for free during the day (but you need to jump the fence) and for a small fee at night.

Golf
The Luang Prabang Golf Course is set amongst stunning scenery on the banks of the Mekong and this year played host to the first Lao Open, as part of the first leg ASEAN PGA tour.  Rates start at $65 for 9 holes on a weekday.  Alternatively, if you just want to practice your swing, a driving range has recently opened down the road from Santi Resort.  The driving range is open late and a basket of balls is 10,000kip.

Spectacular scenery at Luang Prabang Golf Course

If anyone reading this knows of any other sporting activities happening, or facilities available, in Luang Prabang please feel free to comment or contact me so I can add it to and update the blog.


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Grocery shopping in Luang Prabang

May 12, 2012, 4:55 am
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Luang Prabang has numerous small convenience stores dotted around town, but unfortunately most of these sell only soft drinks, Beer Lao, crisps, cigarettes and packets of instant noodles.  If you're new in town and after something more substantial to stock your kitchen, it's not that obvious where you should go.  You also want to be sure you're getting a fair price on the items you buy, and not being taken for a ride with a "falang price".  So here are my recommendations for grocery shopping:

Chinese Shopping Mall

Wan Jia Long Shopping Mall

Ban Nasamphan
Opening hours: Daily 8am - 10pm


There's no such thing as a supermarket in Luang Prabang - at least not yet.  That being said, last month a new Chinese "Shopping Mall" opened,  next to the Dao Fa nightclub.  It is hardly a mall in the Western sense, and not really comparable to supermarkets back home, but it does have shopping trolleys and aisles and it's the closest thing to it.  Here you'll find wide a selection of imported dry goods (pasta, tinned vegetables and sauces) and a random array of cheap, tasteless Chinese crockery and homeware.


Chitanh Minimart

Chitanh Minimart

Kitsalat Road, Opposite Dara Market
Opening hours: Mon - Sat 8am - 5pm, Sun 8am - 12pm

Run by the lovely Lang.  Stocks pasta, rice, breakfast cereals, fresh milk, butter, cheese, jams, tinned vegetables and has a broad selection of imported spirits and wine.  You can also buy electrical homeware items (blenders, irons etc) and bicycles!

Thansamay Epicerie


Thansamay Epicerie

Kitsalat, Opposite Dara Market / TAEC
Opening hours: Mon - Sat 8am - 7.30pm, Sun 8am - 12pm

Similar to Chitanh Deli, but also stocks great organic yoghurts from Xaoban, and has a good selection of foreign cheeses.  They sometimes sell imported vegetables (avocados, asparagus), as well as stocking cured meats, sausages and imported frozen meats and fish (e.g. lamb, chicken, salmon).  Make sure you check the sell-by dates on the dairy items as sometimes they can already be out of date.


Lucky 7 Seven

Lucky 7 Seven

Opening hours: Daily 7am - 10pm
Opposite Wat HoXieng, just past Joma.

This is really a convenience store with the standard crisps, soft drinks and spirits BUT it does have a proper temperature-controlled wine cellar with a good selection of wines and champagnes at reasonable prices starting from around 65,000 kip ($8).



Joma Bakery


Joma Bakery Café

Opening hours:  Daily 7am - 9pm
http://joma.biz/Joma/Welcome.html

Bread (sliced rye, wholewheat, white and 7-grain loaves).  Also a variety of bagels, cakes, pies and quiches.  They do a great apple pie and in winter, they make a classic Libby'style pumpkin pie which you can order in advance for Thanksgiving.




Delicious baguettes at Banneton

Le Banneton Bakery

Opposite Wat Sop, Sakkhaline Road
Opening hours: Daily 6.30am - 6.00pm

Lovely homemade strawberry and blackcurrant jams, tarts, pastries and miniature pastries (croissants, pain au chocolat, apricot danish, almond croissant, pain au raisin) and  ice cream as well as delicious french country loaves, brioche and baguettes.  Easily the best pastries and breads in LP (in my humble opinion).



S&W Butcher Shop

S&W Butcher Shop (aka the German butcher)

On the Nam Khan riverside in Ban Phanluang, between Wat Pak Ha and Wat Phonesa.
T 020 56308665
Opening hours: Mon - Sat, 8.00am - 6.00pm

Wide array of German sausages, mince beef, mince pork, marinated chops and steaks, salamis, bacon and luncheon meats.  There are no signs so it can be quite difficult to find.  Cross over the old bridge and take the first left towards My Dream Resort.  Go all the way along that road, passing Dyen Sabai Restaurant and the Apsara Rive Droite Hotel on your left, and Wat Pak Ha on your right.  The butcher is approximately 250m further along the road from Apsara Rive Droite, just on your right hand side as you reach the Houay Khang concrete bridge.

Go down the driveway and it is the 3rd house along on the left hand side. Best to call ahead to say you're coming and check they are not out making deliveries.

Turning towards the butcher shop, just before the bridge

Morning Market (Talaat Sao)

Ban Pakam, to the west of the Palace Museum, between the main street and the Mekong river road.
Opening hours: 6.00am - 10.00am (Main market).

Fresh eggs (better to buy from here rather than a shop), fruit, vegetables, grains, fish and meat.  Go early in the morning to buy meat, especially in the hot season. By late morning the sun is already hot and the warm meat gets surrounded by flies. Grim. A few fruit and veg stalls at the end are open until 7pm.

Fruit & veg at the Talaat Sao
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Learning Lao in Luang Prabang

May 28, 2012, 7:02 am
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Not everyone agrees, but I believe that to do business and live fully in Luang Prabang, you really need to learn Lao.  At the very least, I think you should attempt to master the basics. Not only does it demonstrate an interest and respect for Laos and its people, it will also help you to better understand the Lao way of thinking, which is invaluable when it comes to doing business here. The more you can communicate in Lao,  the deeper your experience of life here will be, and importantly the less vulnerable you will become. 

Native English speakers such as myself can be pretty lazy when it comes to learning foreign languages; the somewhat narrow-minded and misguided excuse being that "everyone speaks English nowadays so why bother?"

Well perhaps I am unusual for my kind as I enjoy learning languages and speak pretty decent Spanish and French.  Even so, the idea of learning Lao was a little daunting at first.

Lao consonants

Unlike Spanish or French, with their familiar Latin roots, Lao is a completely alien language.  First of all, you have a whole new alphabet to learn and secondly, it is tonal.  In English of course we use tones, but these are used to express emotions, create emphasis, or differentiate between questions and statements.   In Lao, the tone a speaker gives to a word determines its entire meaning.  For example, the Lao word "maa" (as it is spelt in English) can mean "come", "dog" or "horse" depending on how you say it.  Lao has six tones (five in the Luang Prabang dialect) and they are the most difficult thing to master by far. On top of this, the Lao language contains various sounds that don't exist in Western languages (such as words beginning with "ng"), while the mixture of French and English transliteration systems that have developed over the years are fraught with inconsistencies.

The good thing about the Lao language is that the words are generally short (one or two syllables) and they have no singular / plural, no masculine / feminine article (no article at all in fact), no verb tenses and no verb conjugations.  Phew!

So, where do you start? In Luang Prabang there are two main places which offer Lao classes for foreigners.

ARDA Language Centre in Luang Prabang
1. ARDA
T +856 (0) 205 6364143
E noy_it@yahoo.com

ARDA (Anglican Relief and Development Agency) is based at the Santi Pap High School in Ban Viengmay (opposite Wat Bouphavipassnaram). It operates mainly as an English education centre for Lao locals, however they also offer Lao language lessons for foreigners.  They currently have four Lao language teachers, all trained in language teaching at the ECC Centre in Bangkok.
Classes take place from Monday to Thursday, between 9.00am and 3.30pm, and are 1 hour long.

Price: 800,000 kip (US $100) per person / month (total of 16 hours).  You can also arrange for shorter courses and courses tailored to suit your needs.

The French Cultural Centre in Luang Prabang
2. CCLF - IFL
T +856 (0)71 25 39 24
E luangprabang@if-laos.org

The Institut Francais operates a Cultural Centre in Ban Xieng Mouane.  Throughout the year, the centre offers group courses in Lao (minimum 4 people).  Classes are usually 1.5 - 2 hours long and take place in the late afternoon.

Price: 50hrs for 1,560,000 kip/person
Private classes are also offered for 180,000 kip/hour.

To fast-track your studies, the book Lao for Beginners by Benjawan Poomsan Becker, and the accompanying three audio cds, is a great place to start, and having the audio is invaluable for getting the tones right.  (note that the image in the link is of the first edition, but there is now a second edition with a different cover).  It's also worth investing in a decent Lao-English dictionary.  I find this one is pretty comprehensive, easy to use and accompanies the other book well.  In Luang Prabang, both can usually be purchased at Monument Books in Ban Vat Nong.

To get you started on the basics, you can check out this site which has audio to help with your pronunciation.

Last but not least, quite a few Lao words can sound the same to the untrained, falang ear.  But be warned...the subtle differences in pronunciation and tone give them very very different meanings.  Kind of like Italians mispronouncing "beach" or "fork", if you catch my drift.  To avoid some potentially awkward situations and bewildered looks, try not to confuse "muay lai" (very tiring) with "moiy lai", "hak" (love) with "haak", "kalee" (curry) with "kali" or "khaw toht" (excuse me) with "khaw dtot".
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Living with Spirits in Luang Prabang

September 8, 2012, 5:27 am
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Spirits play a large role in Lao life.  Although Buddhism is the main religion, animism (spirit or ancestor worship) is still prominent and many animist beliefs have merged with Buddhist traditions over the years giving rise to some fascinating rituals.

The Lao strongly believe that spirits co-exist with the living and that they should be respected.   There are many different types of spirits, to be found in all sorts of objects and places, but the type I shall talk about here are house spirits. 

House spirits, as the name infers, are the spirits that inhabit and surround a house or building. An important way to ensure that house spirits are respected is to keep and maintain a spirit house.  These are effectively little shelters come shrines where the spirits can have their own space so that they don’t cause problems and are encouraged to protect your home.

In Luang Prabang, spirit houses (or “haw pii” as they are called in Lao) are everywhere – outside homes, businesses, guesthouses, you name it.

The style and structure of the houses vary from simple wooden or metal platforms to ornate miniature temples, usually mounted on a pillar.

Sticky rice piled high outside a spirit house in
Ban Xieng Mouane
Although they are not thought to be bad or evil, spirits are thought to be mischievous and likely to cause problems if appropriate measures are not taken to keep them happy…and in good spirits ha ha.  And providing them with a mere roof over their heads is by no means enough to appease them.

To keep the spirits amused, these miniature houses are often decked out with little figurines of people and animals. Surrounding the houses you will almost always have a small balcony space for burning incense and candles and making offerings.  The most devout and suspicious Lao light incense and make offerings every morning to ask the spirits to watch over and protect their home.  Others are more casual and tend to their spirit houses on a weekly basis.  The traditional offerings in Luang Prabang include flowers, something to eat ( like bananas, sticky rice), something to drink (small cups of water, whiskey or beer) and sometimes cigarettes to smoke!


Restored Spirit House at Artisans du Mekong
Feeling that my current spirit house (a small red perch attached to a pillar under the house) can’t possibly do justice to my house spirits, I decided that I would seek out a new one.  It’s possible to buy colourful ready-made houses from certain shops but I wanted something really unique and construction of spirit houses is a specialized field.  After asking around, a friend told me about Ken Yarborough.

Ken is a local expat who moved to Luang Prabang in 2006 and developed a passion for creating and restoring spirit houses.  Each house is a unique work of art and made from combinations of river driftwood, bits of metal, bamboo, stones and pieces of discarded items that he finds around town.  He has recently opened a workshop and exhibition space in Ban Nong Xai at Artisans du Mekong, so I went along to seek his advice and find something suitable for my elusive housemates.

Before installing a new house, it is necessary to consult the village Shaman or Buddhist Abbott.  He will come to your home and help you find the best position for the spirit house - ensuring maximum spirit contentment and home protection.  Generally, (as I understand it) these are the major dos and don’ts.

Do
·         Place your spirit house in front of a tree
·         Place the spirit house in line with the Buddha room in the building (if there is one)
·         Face the spirit house towards north or northeast
·         Place the spirit house by the front steps of the house (the spirits are thought to spend  a lot of time hanging around the steps)

Don’t
·         Put the spirit house on the left side of a door
·         Face a spirit house towards a toilet or a road
·         Put the spirit house in the shadow of the house

You should always avoid removing a spirit house.  If you want a new one, it is best to just leave the old one intact and put the new one alongside.  If you do wish to remove the old spirit house, a ceremony should be held to move the spirit from the old spirit house to the new one.  The village Shaman or Buddhist Abbott will determine the right date and time for this and will conduct the ceremony.

Spirit House in the making at Artisans du Mekong
After that, the old spirit house can be discarded near a temple or wat, or at a designated place where other spirit houses have been left.  

There are many stories floating around town of incidents where someone disrespected a spirit house and suffered the consequences.  Just the other day I heard one about a big bad developer who (against the advice of his labourers) ordered the spirit house on some land to be destroyed, and was immediately struck down by a heart attack.  Whether these rumours are myth or fact is anyone’s guess, but I’m certainly not taking my chances.

For more information on Ken Yarborough and to see examples of his work click on this link or head to Artisans du Mekong. www.artisansdumekong.asia
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Portraits from Luang Prabang

September 12, 2012, 7:39 pm
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Videos of Luang Prabang on YouTube always seem to disappoint. Often they are just amateur footage, or a slideshow of someone's holiday photos set to music. Even the news and travel show clips simply do not manage capture the real Luang Prabang - the light, the people, the je ne sais quoi.

If you want to see a video that really conveys the true essence and ethereal beauty of Luang Prabang, then check out this new short film from resident expat photographer and film-maker, Adri Berger.  The film is a series of moving portraits showcasing the local people and artisans who are the heartbeat of this World Heritage town. The traditional livelihoods kept alive by the people featured in the film are a huge part of what gives Luang Prabang its unique, timeless quality.  More films and photography can be found at http://www.adriberger.com/

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The Luang Prabang Film Festival

November 25, 2012, 8:47 pm
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This is the first year that I will be around for the annual Luang Prabang Film Festival, which takes place over 5 days in the first week of December.

The festival, which first took place in 2010, is a celebration of South East Asian Cinema and is run by its founder and director, resident Luang Prabang expat Gabriel Kuperman.

The festival is not-for-profit, and its aim is essentially to bring the world of film and media closer to Laos and its people, promoting film as a means of cultural expression and as a potential career route for young Lao people.  The hope is that the festival will spark a sustainable domestic film industry in Laos, which has long been lacking despite its potential.

Luang Prabang has no functioning cinema - only the empty SiengSavan cinema built in the 1950s, that ceased operation many years ago, and Le Tam Tam on the main street which is now a restaurant. The main screening venue for the event (with seating for 800 spectators) is a temporary outdoor cinema at the Hmong Market, just at the start of the Night Market.  Film screenings and other activities will also take place during the mornings and afternoons at Amantaka Hotel and Project Space.

This year the festival will showcase 28 feature length films from across the region, including 5 films from Laos itself.   The films are selected by the festival's Motion Picture Ambassadors with an aim to represent the best works produced in SE Asia within the past 5 years.

The festival will also feature curated collections of short films, as well as exhibitions, seminars, workshops, concerts and performances. Entry to all screenings is free of charge.  Click here for the full schedule.

Aside from the 5 day festival, the organisation, in conjunction with the Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism,  works throughout the year to support film projects and provide educational activities that encourage young Lao students to pursue their interests in film-making.

To provide funding support for the organisation, and learn more go to: 
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How to experience the Lao Herbal Steam Bath in Luang Prabang

January 22, 2013, 12:47 am
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I recently had my first experience of the traditional Lao Sauna or Herbal Steam Bath.  I’d been meaning to go for a while having been told by many locals of the health benefits.   It is a weekly ritual amongst many Lao, especially young women who regard it as an important part of their beauty routine.  Men also like to go to relax and de-stress, particularly after doing sport.  In the past herbal steaming was used medicinally to treat those who were ill and for keeping new mothers healthy after childbirth.  It is still very common practice for women who’ve just given birth to spend the first month sitting very still next to a boiling pot of medicinal herbs.  

The steam room is essentially a small wooden room with benches for sitting on.  Water containing herbs is heated by a furnace in a separate area underneath, and the steam is fed into the room through a pipe. Herbs used include lemongrass, eucalyptus, kaffir lime and a mixture of various local tree barks, leaves and twigs that are thought to contain medicinal properties. Depending on where you go, there can be up to 25 or more in the pot.  Some dried, some fresh – they are boiled for around 2-4 hours.

Herbs drying in the sun and the blazing furnace below the steam room

Before you go, it’s worth knowing the dos and don’ts in order to avoid any awkwardness and get the most from your experience.

Firstly, I advise bringing your own towel for the shower unless you want to drip dry and put your clothes back on over sopping wet skin.

When you arrive, you’ll be given a sarong and a small hand-towel at the reception, after which you should head to the changing room (they have separate changing areas for men and women).  You should remove all clothing including underwear and put on the sarong (discretely, without exposing too much flesh!).  At the Peninsula Steam Bath, where I visited, there are lockers in the changing room where you should store your belongings.

If you have long hair, tie it up away from your face.  Then you’re ready for the steam.  Men and women’s saunas are separate so make sure you go into the right one for your gender!  You should knock on the door before you enter to alert anyone inside.

Once inside the small room, take a seat on the bench alongside your fellow steamers.  Just to warn you, it is VERY HOT. Be sure to close your eyes to avoid eye trouble and possible infection.  Inhale deeply through the nose and breathe out through the mouth.   Use the little towel to wipe the beads of moisture from your face and eyes.  

Lao people generally stay for around 1-2 hours, coming out of the steam room every 5-10 minutes to cool off, take a shower, pour themselves a cup of complimentary herbal tea and chat to friends.  Some girls perform extra beauty treatments during the cooling off intervals – covering their skin with yoghurt or milk to supposedly whiten the skin, or applying special conditioning treatments to their hair.   

When you have had enough, get your towel from your locker and head to the shower room where you can wash off all the sweat and get dressed.   

And that’s about it.  You should feel refreshed, revitalized and your skin will be glowing.

Peninsula Herbal Steam Bath
Ban Xieng Thong
Opening hours:  4pm – 8.30pm
Price: 20,000 kip for foreigners, 15,000 kip for locals

Other popular steam baths in town are:
Lemongrass in Ban Xieng Mouane (just off the main shopping street)
Lao Red Cross in Ban Visoun(opposite the Wat)
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10 Reasons to visit Luang Prabang in Low Season

February 6, 2013, 6:16 am
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It’s high season in Luang Prabang at the moment, so the town is buzzing with visitors and it got me thinking about why I like the low season.  Low season in Luang Prabang is the period from May to September.   I don’t really get why fewer people visit during this time.  This is the hot, rainy season but calling it the rainy season can be a little misleading.  Yes, it rains but the rains usually fall during the night while the days are sunny with bright blue skies.  Of course, the heat can turn people away but as long as you plan your days well (taking a cool rest somewhere between midday and 3pm if you are very averse to the heat) then it is a lovely time of year to be here. Why?  Here are my top 10 reasons.

1.      Avoid the crowds & tour groups
High season in Luang Prabang can be a bit of zoo these days as streets become clogged with ambling tour groups, travellers, vans and cars.  This is great for local business but not so great if you prefer a more tranquil, “place to myself” atmosphere.   

2.      Fresh air, sunshine and bright blue skies
The rains bring fresh air to our little town which can get dusty and dry in high season. The skies are clear and blue and when the sun is shining it is hot!  It’s a good time to make use of the town’s swimming pools, where you can soak up the sun, sip cocktails and cool off in the water.

3.      Dine at the best restaurants without a reservation
During high season, the best restaurants in town get booked up and it can be tough to get a table without booking in advance.  Same goes for the more popular tourist activities like the Elephant Village.  If you prefer to be spontaneous when it comes to dining, and want to sample the better menus on offer, then low season is the time to come.

4.      Better hotel rates
Needless to say you can get much better rates at the hotels and guesthouses during this time, and not have to worry about over-bookings.  For visitors, it’s a good time to treat yourself to a stay in one of the higher end hotels with a pool so you can cool off during the hot afternoons.  Higher end hotels close to the centre (with pools) are Satri House, Maison Souvannaphoum, and Villa Maly.

The main pool and original building at Satri House Hotel

5.      Spa Packages
Discount spa treatments are on offer at many of the nice hotels and luxury spas around town.  Kiridara Hotel usually has good discounts on spa packages, as does the Angsana Spa at Maison Souvannaphoum. For those who want to get out of town into the countryside a bit, the ZenNamKhan   does a pampering deal including massage, Japanese spa and a swim in their Eco-pool.

6.      Flora and Fauna
Low season would be better referred to as Green Season.  During high season the town and surroundings become dry and dusty.  But once the rains hit, the area bursts with colour – the surrounding hills are covered with luscious bright green forests, the rice fields are striking and colourful flowers bloom around the town.  This is also the butterfly season – huge, magnificent, colourful butterflies can be spotted especially around the shores of the river and up by Kuang Si waterfall.

Bright red flowers along the Mekong river bank
7.      Fun Festivals
One of the most enjoyable Lao festivals, the Boat Racing Festival, happens during low season, in September.  The festival takes place over a weekend, where villages from around the region compete in dragon boat races on the Nam Khan river.  The atmosphere is electric. You can watch the teams doing their evening training in the weeks leading up to the event, and also catch the smaller boat races on the Mekong the week prior to the main event.  

Team of rowers during the boat racing festival

8.      Waterfalls
Beautiful Tad Sae waterfall dries up in the high season but during the rainy season from July and into October, the falls are spectacular and a wonderful place to go and cool off with a refreshing swim.
Crystal clear waters at Tad Sae Waterfall in September
9.      Glide through immigration
The queues at the airport during high season are long and painful. The process of arrival and departure in low season is much faster and much less frustrating (although saying "faster" may be misleading - "not as slow" might be more accurate).

10.  Peace & Quiet
High season coincides with Wedding Season in Luang Prabang and weddings are very noisy affairs.  When the Lao celebrate (pretty much anything but especially weddings) they like to celebrate for days and to play music and / or sing karaoke as loudly as possible.  So if you’re here in the low season, you can look forward to a little more peace and quiet from the neighbours (although of course there are no guarantees here).
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Long Stay Visas in Luang Prabang

March 15, 2013, 7:13 am
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I get a lot of emails about how to arrange long stay visas in Luang Prabang so I figured it was time to write a post about it.  Without further ado, there are really four options to choose from.

1. Stay on your tourist visa and extend

Immigration Office, Ban Visoun
You can stay in Luang Prabang for up to 3 months on a tourist visa.  On arrival at the airport, you get a visa for 30 days.  The day before the date the visa expires, go to the immigration office in Ban Visoun (with your passport and a photo) and ask to extend the visa for 30 days. They will ask you to fill out a form, and will take your passport and photo. You can return to pick up your passport with the visa extension stamp either later that same day or the following day. The cost is $2 per day of extension so one month is $60.  You can return again after 30 days and do the process again. However, you cannot extend a third time. 

After 3 months, you have to leave the country and then return and repeat the process again.  Flying in and out of Luang Prabang can be expensive (a return flight to Bangkok is around $400 incl tax), so a lot of people take the bus down to Vientiane , cross over the Friendship Bridge into Thailand and then turn around and come back into Vientiane. Tedious, but much cheaper and of course you can always stock up on supplies at the shopping malls on the Thai side of the border.

Word of warning – the visas and extensions take up a lot of space so make sure you have plenty of blank pages in your passport.   

The Immigration Office is open from 8.00am to 11.30am and 2.00 to 4.00pm, Monday to Friday. The office is opposite the Rama Hotel, on Visounnarath Road. 

2. Get a job

It is possible to get a business visa and work permit for one year if you get a job locally. The application process is tedious and you can find yourself without your passport for a month or so while the bureaucrats in Vientiane process it.  The business you work for will usually take care of all this, including the cost of the visa and permit which is around $500.   

Laos work permit
The sorts of jobs available to foreigners are with NGOs, hotel management, restaurant management and working in marketing or operations for tour operators.  

Only large businesses can really hire foreigners as there is a law which states that the ratio of Lao to foreign employees must be 10:1.  In other words, for every 10 Lao employees, a business can hire one foreigner. However, I believe they do bend the rules on this for teachers in international schools.

3. Get a fake job

There is the possibility of getting a business visa and work permit without actually having a job here. There are people in Vientiane who can organise this and it costs around $500.  Essentially, they find a large company in Vientiane to put you on their books as an employee. Of course this is the dodgy option so you do this at your own risk. It probably won’t be long before the authorities put a stop to this practice. The visa lasts one year.

4. Get a foreign investors license

If you plan to set up a company and open a business here, you can obtain a foreign investors license which will allow you to get a long stay visa.  To find out more about this and investing in Laos, check this link http://www.real-estate-luang-prabang.com/laos-general-country-information/laos-investment-law/

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